Riad Fes is the only place in the Fes medina that has all the whistles and bells of a proper five-star hotel, without compromising the magic of riad living. The hotel is made up of five of the city’s most noble houses interconnected by marble staircases and candlelit corridors, each with its own distinctive character.
For visitors who don’t relish the idea of having to walk deep into the old city to get home, Riad Fes is, rather romantically, a short walk through a secluded walled garden from the nearest vehicle drop-off point. There’s plenty to see and do nearby, but with so many facilities on site, it’s worth allowing time to spend in-house.
The original house, now home to the lobby and some of the more spectacular suites, was built at the start of the 1900s when ostentatious décor in the shape of flamboyant hand-cut tiles, gurgling fountains, intricately carved plater and soaring columns were the height of fashion. It makes for a spectacular jumping-off point into an Arabian Nights fantasy idly moving from one stunning setting to the next – a shady, palm filled courtyard in one house, a reflecting pool where marble tiles are etched with bronze in the next, with the scent of orange blossom and cedar wood in the air – and get a real sense of what life might have been life for the grand families that once lived here.
Staff are attentive but discreet and veteran Swiss general manager Harry Leitner is very much a hands-on presence, ensuring guests benefit from an old-school approach to hospitality, resulting in a place that feels warm and cosseting. A big shout-out goes to the spa and hammam, and its home-grown Maroc Maroc treatments – an hour-long, Argan oil and rose-water based revitalising Soin Éclat massage is a bargain at 800 dirhams (£66), followed perhaps by a snooze beside a generously sized pool. Up on the roof, where sail shades and Italian sofas invite lingering, 360-degree views of the old city make it the perfect setting for a sunset cocktail, which invariably segues into dinner under the stars.
With 30 rooms in various categories you can choose from a Deluxe room on the roof – a cosy little bolthole perfect for the winter months, with the added advantage of a sheltered secluded terrace for soaking up the sun – to the rather more extravagant Royal Suite with a 150 square-metre terrace looking over the old city, a secluded living room with deep sofas, beautiful Islamic architectural details and a sparkling chandelier. Wherever you lay your head, it’s a notable extra that you can have breakfast served in your room free of charge.
The buffet breakfast is variable – eggs Benedict are poorly made, while local breads and pastries are great. Dinner is far more successful offering club sandwiches and juicy burgers on the decked roof, to gourmet feasts in L’Ambre – one part a classic Moroccan lounge in shades of crimson, the other a contemporary dining space with intimate nooks for two. The menu riffs on classic Moroccan dishes – seasonal vegetable tagine with ginger sauce, slowly braised baby hen with three spices – alongside international favourites like delicate ravioli stuffed with homemade ricotta. You can also get an expertly made martini at the l’Alcazar bar, which rounds out an evening’s entertainment nicely.
There are several ground-floor rooms as well as lift access to the terrace and swimming pool.
It’s not officially adult-only, but the hotel tends to direct families with kids to the property’s sister hotel which has more facilities for younger guests, the Hotel Sahrai, in the Ville Nouvelle.
Trusted Tourism Brand
Leave a review