When the Saidi family moved from France back to Fez about 10 years ago they were determined to find a bucolic bolthole to escape the city. They found it in the shape of a ruined farm tucked into the crook of a terracotta-coloured hill with sensational views across the Saïss plains to the ancient Fez medina.
Just 45 minutes drive from the Fez old city, and 20 minutes from the nearest market town of Imouzzer – there’s plenty to explore nearby if you have a car. Stop in town for a lunch of grilled Atlas trout at Le Truite. Pop in to the Domaine de la Pommeraie to sample locally made organic goats cheese, and, should you be coming in Winter, go sledding in Ifrane followed by drinks at the legendary Michlifen Hotel.
While the original footprint of the old farmhouse remains, it’s been re-imagined as a contemporary chic Berber home. Smooth poured concrete floors contrast with exposed stone walls, a sunken lounge looks upon a wall of gleaming windows framing the view, and lovingly tended gardens brimming with flowers cascade down the hillside in a series of perfectly manicured terraces.
Hosted by Jaoued Saidi and his wife Samira, along with Alaa and Fatima who come from neighbouring villages, Dar el Mandar is all about attention to detail, making it a great home-from-home for locals and tourists alike. In the summer, camel-haired Berber tents are laden with colourful carpets and cushions for mid-afternoon snoozes, and fire pits subtle the gardens at night. In the winter a roaring fireplace is constantly tended in an open-plan lounge and dining room. Year round hikes, donkey rides and Berber baking are available for the interested, but it’s as a place to chill out and do nothing. A day pass with pool access and lunch costs about MAD 362 (£28).
With only three bedrooms, it’s a great pad for a group of friends, especially as it’s more home than hotel in style. Each of the spacious rooms come off the main living area and all have king size beds topped with crisp linens and hand-woven cactus silk throws, as well as walk in showers. There’s no air-conditioning or central heating, but gas heaters keep it warm and toasty in the winter and mountain winds do the rest when it gets hot.
Fatima is a great cook, coming up with fruit salads, homemade yogurt and freshly laid eggs for breakfast. Lunchtimes see guests gathered around the outdoor bar sipping glasses of Moroccan rose and nibbling hot bread from a clay oven dipped in the farm’s own olive oil infused with garlic and rosemary, before a banquet of salads, chicken tagines and fresh fruit platters. Evenings are a more intimate affair with food served by the fire or on the terrace.
Easy enough to the main house, and there is a fairly level path into the lower level gardens and pool area. The rest of the terraced grounds are trickier.
Very. The owners’ own kids are often on site and in-the-know locals who come up for the day at weekends nearly always have their own brood in tow.
Trusted Tourism Brand
Leave a review