Salut Maroc is a flamboyant hotel in the most colourful city in the country. Housed in an 18th-century former merchant’s house with sensational ocean views, its raison d’etre is a passion for traditional Moroccan zellije – hand-cut tiles – which grace the floor and walls of every room in technicolour splendour.
It’s hard to think of a better location in Essaouira than this. Half a minute from the main square, Place Moulay Hassan, on moat-like Rue de Skala; the only thing that separates it from the grey-green, crashing ocean waves are the mighty sandstone ramparts punctuated by canons. Two of the city’s best restaurants – Umia for steamed clams and beef wellington; Triskala for vegan dishes – are less than a minute away and the riddle of souks that define the medina are just behind.
Expect to be wowed from the minute you walk through the door due to a courtyard inlaid with Mondrian-inspired tiles that swirl upwards to a cobalt-on-turquoise-on-navy wraparound balcony, which gives splendid bird’s-eye views of it. Keep going and you’ll hit the roof terrace, where a dining room in black and white punches the air with Thuya wood beams painted in primary shades. You’ll spot painted wooden doors and windows by local artists, bed frames from the Sahara turned into display posts for crimson embroidered carpets, and chairs upholstered with vintage textiles snaffled from local souks. Hotelier Helen Howat is a woman who clearly loves colour and is not afraid to use it.
The staff seem genuinely happy to be here – not least for the satisfaction of seeing guests’ jaws drop when they are shown their rooms. Not many people (or places) can carry off a bold look with such aplomb, and the atmosphere is equally self-assured and confident. In the lobby it’s hard to tell whether you’ve arrived at a hotel or somehow inadvertently joined a very special club – expect a welcome more that of a long-lost friend, than paying guest – while on the rooftop the vibe’s all barefoot-in-the-sand. There is a private hammam, tiled in beach tones, that is just the place to steam away your cares for the afternoon (£40).
Five of the 11 rooms have sea views, several have hand-painted murals by roving artists from India, Chile and France, and all have terrific copper bathtubs (which are so wonderful it’s almost worth checking in just to get in one). Depending on how psychedelic you like your surrounds will determine which room you choose, so it’s worth spending some time perusing the website to decide on colour and pattern; whichever you go for is sure to bedazzle.
The smaller rooms are very small with even smaller bathrooms, so it’s worth upgrading to one of the Safi, Tangier or Casablanca suites if you want plenty of space; suites also feature their own private living room warmed by a log fireplace, which makes for the cosiest nook during a storm.
If there’s a better place to start the day than up on the roof with Atlantic breezes blowing out the cobwebs I’ve yet to find it. Here you can tuck into traditional Moroccan breads and pastries, locally made preserves and Berber omelettes, freshly made on the spot, with just a soupçon of spice. It’s good for lunch and supper too, when the chefs fire up the charcoal grill for fish from the market, flame-grilled burgers and juicy monkfish brochettes. You can also dine on more traditional dishes, such as vegetable couscous, seafood pastilla and delicately spiced beef tagine with seffa (Moroccan noodles). There is live music at lunchtime from July to August.
Double rooms from $169 year-round. Breakfast included. Free Wi-Fi. Tourist tax is $2.50 per person per day.
Not suitable.
Children will love all the bright colours as well as staff that spoil them rotten, and the menu is fairly child-friendly. Come well stocked with books, games and other activities if they need entertaining, though.
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