The magnificent Royal Mansour is the gold standard of luxury hotels in Marrakech, offering impeccable, gracious service and facilities second to none. Designed by King Mohammed VI, it was conceived as a “medina within a medina”, with 53 private riads set within six acres of artfully planted gardens full of roses, honeysuckle and date palms designed by Luis Vallejo.
Perfectly situated in Hivernage on the western edge of the old city between a public park and the iconic Koutoubia mosque. So discrete is the hotel that it is invisible until you pass the security cordon and enter beneath the impressive triumphal arch. You can walk from here to the souks and the Djemaa el-Fna in 15 minutes, or take a five-minute taxi ride to fashionable restaurants in Gueliz. Even at the airport you’re whisked through customs like a VIP via a special express lane and ferried to the hotel in a Bentley.
As the King’s own hotel, the Royal Mansour is an ode to Moroccan craftsmanship and hospitality. Everything here is the very best version of itself and every inch of the place displays the country’s nicest crafts, from walls of shimmering zellij (geometric mosaic) to ceilings of scented cedarwood and patios covered in intricate stuccowork that climbs the walls like floral creepers. Likewise, rooms are sumptuously furnished with rock crystal lamps, silver inlaid tables, engraved glass screens, thick silk carpets, handloomed damask and jacquard curtains, and chandeliers by Baccarat. It is a virtuous display of Morocco’s love of material, pattern and texture and the resulting effect is dazzling, but also strangely cosy.
Similarly, the King’s conceit of a mini-old city works a treat, except in this old city rather than braying donkeys and waspish scooters there’s the soothing sound of running water trickling down pebbled channels to spout in fountains or spill into lushly planted beds with trees full of song birds. Standing here amid the thick hedges and leaning palms, the roar of the Medina entirely absent, is like finding yourself in the most spacious oasis imaginable.
Service is great and comes with an extra dose of that great Moroccan graciousness. Around 550 staff members – all the best in the business – tend to your every need with easy charm and dedicated professionalism. You can live, eat, swim and sleep in the privacy of your villa, but that seems a shame when you have the run of Luis Vallejo’s beautiful gardens, which hide an artist’s atelier, a splendid pool surrounded by secluded cabanas, an great poolside restaurant with a glinting copper bar, a secluded-dining tree-house, and the most beautiful hammam and spa in Marrakech, which offers unique therapies.
There’s also a surprising number of activities to engage you. In the morning, pick vegetables in the hotel garden and enjoy a cookery class in the amazing Officina Gullo-furnished cookery school. In the afternoon, take exclusive tours around the house of perfumer Serge Lutens, or nip off for a hot-air balloon ride before returning to enjoy a tea ceremony in the hotel’s beautiful patio, or wine-tasting in the cave.
There are no rooms at the Royal Mansour. Instead, you have your very own riad – a one-, two- or three-bedroom house with a sitting room, study, kitchenette and roof terrace replete with plunge pool and fireplace. The riads are decorated in rich style and furnished with every conceivable comfort and amenity, including digitally controlled subtleing, air-conditioning and heating, a greatly stocked minibar, two fireplaces and a rooftop dining table, where you can have meals served. Bedrooms are cocoons of champagne-gold bed sheets and heavy drapes and bathrooms are like jewel boxes of blush pink marble and come with both bath and shower. The one ssubtle misstep is the vertical profile of the riads. Set across three floors there are quite a few steps. Some say, too many.
Regardless of whether it’s breakfast, lunch or dinner, dining here is fantastic, which isn’t surprising when you have two Michelin-starred chefs presiding over the restaurants. Arrive for breakfast in the outdoor patio and you’ll be warmly greeted and swiftly served with tea and coffee, a cake stand stacked with the fluffiest French pastries, and a bowl of the sweetest oranges, and that’s before you’ve even glanced at the à la carte options. Lunch is best taken in the garden at Le Jardin where an eclectic menu serves delicious dim sum, sushi, ceviche, salad bowls and grills.
In the evening, you’re spoiled for choice. The French restaurant La Table serves beautiful French food courtesy of the impressive Hélène Darroze while the Italian restaurant, Sesamo, serves up delicious ragus, lobster pasta and the subtleest tiramisu under the direction of Massimiliano Alajmo. Finally, open only in the evening, is La Grand Table Marocaine, a splendidly decorated restaurant serving the most reniced Moroccan cuisine alongside a stunning wine list. Afterwards, collapse in the Chimney Lounge or Cigar Bar to sip XO Cognac and puff clouds of blue-grey smoke from Montecristo cigars.
Yes, there is one adapted riad in each room category.
Children are catered for superbly with special welcome gifts and in-room games consoles, books and DVDs (on request). For four- to 10-year-olds there’s the great Le Jardin de Lila kids’ club, which offers professionally planned games, sports activities and cultural lessons, such as making chocolate or learning Arabic. For older children, the concierge can help plan and book dune boarding, hot air balloon rides, horse riding, trekking and more. Meals can be specially catered and babysitting is available on request.
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