This former ambassador’s retreat offers peace and seclusion around the corner from the brouhaha of Djemaa el-Fna. Seven linked riads offer gallery-sized guestrooms showcasing Middle Eastern artworks, from hand-painted tiles in the Ottoman suite to antique Berber wedding veils in the Douriya Suite.
Superbly located virtually in the centre of the old city, just around the corner from the main souks, but quietly situated down a small derb (alleyway). From here it’s a mere four minutes’ walk to the Djemaa el-Fna and 15-minute walk to the Medersa Ben Youssef and the Bahia Palace. Taxis can be picked up in the Djemaa.
The original riad, complete with its four-quartered garden planted with fruit trees, sits at the heart of the complex with smaller dars (houses with unplanted patios) radiating around it. Explorations reveal a total of seven patios, three elegant salons, several small bhous (seating alcoves), a small pool, shady upstairs loggias and a pretty jigsaw of terraces scattered with deckchairs and shady tents perfect for lounging, dining and sundowners. It’s an intriguing composition of different spaces and atmospheres furnished with top quality antiques, which lend the house an elegant atmosphere.
The extensive and long-serving staff of 19 are professional and alert without hovering. They can help guests arranging excursions or booking restaurants and ensure everyone feels looked after. House bonuses include a small, classic hammam, a small pool with a counter-current system, a well-stocked library and shared television in the Palm House sitting room, and some well-regarded cooking classes that lead you from local markets to a four-course lunch.
There are five rooms, nine suites and one self-contained ‘house’, which sleeps up to five and is a perfect bolthole for families or groups of friends. All of the rooms are huge and could easily be confused for galleries, given the lofty architecture and museum-worthy framed textiles and antiques. Some are a bit dark, but that is not unusual for a riad, given that the architecture aims to exclude the hot summer sun and keep interiors warm during the chilly winter.
Lower floor rooms tend to come without air-conditioning as their thick walls keep them cool, while most bathrooms, finished in polished tadelakt, come with showers. Step up to a suite and you’ll get a generously sized sitting room with a fireplace, while the two-bedroom Blue House has its own secluded patio courtyard, kitchenette and terrace.
Languorous breakfasts easily turn into afternoon teas and sunset cocktail hours on the sprawling roof terrace. The continental breakfast features fruit, mountain honey, Moroccan pancakes, charcuterie and homemade yogurt. For lunch, a subtle menu of salads is available, while dinner in the candlelit garden showcase Moroccan dishes such as beef tangia (slow-cooked in a clay pot) and spicy fish tagine.
The dining room, salons, pool and some rooms are on the ground floor, but the house is Unsuitable for wheelchair users.
The main riad is a romantic bolthole for couples, but the two-bedroom guesthouse is a great self-contained space for families with older children. It comes with its own roof terrace and sitting room, which is supplied with CDs and DVDs. Under-12s stay free of charge. Beds for children over 12 years old cost €45 (£40) per night.
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