Spacious suites decorated with antique Saharan water jugs and hand-carved Dogon chairs can be found at this zen-like, five-bedroom riad located off-the-beaten track in the characterful north eastern neighbourhood of Kaat Benahid, which is minutes from the Spice Souk.
It’s definitely an adventure the first time you’re accompanied down the winding derb and through a tunnel to the front door. Once you get the hang of it, you’re just 12 minutes walking distance northeast of Djemaa el-Fna and six minutes southeast of Ali ben Youssef Medersa. The nearest place to pick up taxis is either the Djemaa or Place Moqf.
Marrakech has a centuries-long connection with sub-Saharan Africa from where this riad takes its decorative cue. And, boy, would you be pleased to kick off the desert sand in Tchaikana’s contemplative patio with its white and dove-grey colour scheme and its classic riad garden divided into four quarters and planted with shady orange trees. One large suite and one double room are situated downstairs behind two beautifully painted and carved doors, while the other three rooms are located around the gallery on the first floor alongside two recessed bhous (sitting areas), where guests enjoy relaxing in the evening. Upstairs there’s a small roof terrace with a shaded seating area and a couple of sunloungers.
Manager Khadija and her reliably gracious staff are quick with smiles, refreshments and dinner reservations at top restaurants. She can also help sort out guides, hammam and massage appointments and a variety of excursions. There’s no restaurant, but dinner is served here if booked in advance.
There are two suites and three very large double rooms, which would qualify as suites elsewhere. All of them have the same monochrome, minimalist décor with woven Malian mats, whitewashed walls and white linens, which are off-set by interesting African sculptures, vintage black-and-white photographs, carved Dogon chairs and shapely Saharan water jugs. All of them have separate seating areas, walk-in wardrobes and small bathrooms with showers finished in cream-coloured, polished tadelakt (plaster). The two suites also have fireplaces, but none of the rooms have air-conditioning, preferring instead to rely on the architecture of the house which keeps rooms fairly cool. Fans are available.
Breakfasts supply enough pancakes, pastries, Nespresso and freshly squeezed juice to fuel souk expeditions, and dinners, which need to be booked in advance, can range from a satisfying bowl of leek soup to detailed beef and artichoke tagines.
There are no adapted rooms, but access is fair; dining tables, salons, and a couple of guestrooms frame the courtyard garden.
Children under eight-years-old are not accepted. Otherwise, larger suites can accommodate either three or four people with extra beds costing an additional €15 (£13) per night.
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