Passing through the low, thickset door into this fabulous boutique riad knocks most people off their feet. It is everything a medina riad should be: tranquil, cossetting, beautiful and relaxing, and full of artistry and fine craftwork.
Set slightly off the beaten track down a low, dark alley (don’t be put off it is perfectly safe) in the local neighbourhood of Kaat Benahid. From here it’s a five-minute walk to the Rahba Kedima spice souk, the Marrakech Museum and the Medersa Ben Youssef, and a 10-minute walk to the Djemaa el-Fna. Taxis can be picked up at Place Mokf.
Reflecting the luxurious Orientalist style of its original owner, the eponymous Camille, Riad Camilia is truly exquisite. The low, unassuming door opens to a small corridor which funnels you into a patio planted with citrus trees beneath which rattan armchairs are scattered. To one side a deep plunge pool invites dangling legs in summer, while in winter you can retreat to the luxurious living room which is filled with soft, suede-covered sofas, brightly-coloured Berber rugs, twinkling brass lanterns and turn-of-the-century paintings.
A second, adjoining riad provides a glass-roofed dining room, again richly decorated, while up above on the wraparound terrace you’ll find scattered chairs, cushioned sofas and sun loungers amid the potted plants.
There is a surprising sense of space in this riad thanks to the labyrinthine layout and the generous size of all the rooms. The planted patio and luxurious lounge provide two comfortable sitting areas suited to different times of day or moods, while the dining room (often an after-thought in most riads) is more atmospheric than many medina restaurants. The plunge pool in the patio isn’t really suitable for swimming, but the hammam and spa are nicely finished and thoughtfully set apart for privacy. Anas, the manager, is a great host and a true professional and along with his team of seven staff can organise pretty much anything from guides to events and excursions.
The riad has two rooms and four suites, all of which are sumptuously decorated and generous in size. They vary in décor although the vibe here is more European with comfortable divan beds, luxe silk curtains and blinds, and cute slipper chairs upholstered in kilim fabrics. Menara, one of the smaller rooms, has the whole first-floor loggia to itself and overlooks the patio; while the Dar el Bacha suite has an enormous living room set with a fireplace. They are all beautifully decorated with quality textiles, thick rugs and interesting antiques, and are well heated in winter and cool in summer. Bathrooms are of a similar high standard with Boujad marble tubs or huge tadelakt showers.
Food is taken seriously here and Fatima is an experienced cook turning out refined Moroccan dishes. Breakfast, which is served beneath the orange trees in the patio or up on the roof terrace in fine weather, is an array of fresh fruit, unusual Moroccan breads, pancakes and delicate orange blossom-scented cake. With advance notice, a light lunch is also possible on the roof terrace, while dinner is served in the large dining room, which is softly lit and formally dressed with embroidered tablecloths from Fez and fine bone china. The menu is traditional, but the tagines offered are unusual and their execution is elevated way above the norm.
Double rooms from €170 ($188), and suites from €210 ($234), year round. Breakfast included. Free Wi-Fi. In low season, look out for the occasional discount, which can be as much as 15 per cent.
Not suitable.
Children over 12 years old are welcomed. All the suites can accommodate extra beds (€40/£33 extra per night). The largest is the Ben Youssef suite, which can be extended to include two additional rooms, one with a double bed and the other with a single bed.
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