Jasper Conran’s 19th-century riad is a haven of effortless good taste. Its extravagant green garden and art-filled suites channel the same soignée glamour as the 1942 film, Casablanca. Walk-on roles are played by a cosmopolitan guest list, who look every inch the part lounging fireside in the luxe salons.
Buried down a winding derb in the authentic neighbourhood of Bab Doukkala. On the doorstep is a busy local market and the Djemaa el-Fna is a 15-minute walk away. Taxis are available at Bab Doukkala.
Good taste depends as much on what is edited out as what is selected, and Conran’s hawkish design eye has conjured an atmosphere of old-school glamour with a pared-back contemporary sensibility. The harmonious proportions of this period palace – its double-height arches, deep balconies, rambling roof terraces and thickly planted patio – speak to a spirit of generosity and quiet sophistication; while rare artworks, hand-loomed carpets and signature fabrics add layers of thoughtful luxury and personality. It radiates a timeless Deco decadence that puts guests at ease and elicits impromptu aperitif parties on the roof terrace or deep and meaningful conversations at the zinc-topped bar, while Louis Armstrong croons in the background.
Luca Ravera, the manager, sets a suave tone in the house chatting to guests in five languages and supplying advice on the Marrakech scene. He’s supported by a staff of eight who take extraordinary care in their work, dressing tables in fine linens, ferrying silver buckets of ice to the roof and explaining some of the finer points of Moroccan food and culture.
The garden is possibly the finest feature of the house. From the dining salon it looks like a luxuriant Zuber wall print through the floor-to-ceiling French windows, and it also provides a natural screen for the 10-metre-long, heated saltwater pool. In addition, there’s a hammam (available when the house is rented as a whole) and a jigsaw of roof terraces smothered in jasmine and potted roses. In-room massages are available on request.
With just five suites, staying here feels like visiting a beautiful private home, which is exactly what a riad is meant to be. Tangier and Asilah are the smallest suites, while Zagora, Fez and Casablanca run the whole width of the house, each with its own private terrace or balcony. All rooms have romantic, four-poster beds swathed in romantic voile drapery, and are furnished with artworks from Jasper’s collection including glittering Indian miniature paintings, elaborate, inlaid Syrian mirrors and organic Art Deco lamps by Daum Frères. Thoughtful touches include ear plugs for light sleepers, fresh fruit, dates and a good stock of complimentary toiletries in the light-filled tadelakt bathrooms, three of which have tubs.
If you can bear to leave the cloud-like comfort of your bed, breakfast on linen-covered tables on your private terrace or beneath the pergola on the roof. You won’t have to wait for coffee, which arrives promptly in a wicker-lined thermos. A continental or Moroccan option is offered, along with a variety of eggs.
Bouchra, the house dada (cook), has an unusual and varied repertoire of Moroccan dishes. Vegetarian meals feature highly, including a fabulous pea and artichoke tagine; otherwise, there are fish pastillas and a beef and quince tagine that has the deepest, sweetest flavour profile. Beautiful table settings, crackling fires in winter and a background of soft jazz create a soulful atmosphere.
Double rooms from €293 ($339) in low season; and from €465 ($539) in high. Breakfast included. Free airport transfers included if guests book directly. Free Wi-Fi.
Not suitable.
Children can only be accommodated if the whole house is rented.
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