Tucked into the crevices of a Hobbit-like landscape stitched together by the teal-coloured streams and rivers of the Talassemtane National Park, this is an idyllic retreat for nature lovers.
About an hour north of the famed blue city of Chefchaouen. The bright green lands of the Rif stretch away to the Mediterranean offering hikers endless trails of varying difficulty. The seaside town of Tetouan is another hour north. However, the hermitage itself is located a kilometre from the nearest car park. Stop there, call the hotel and someone will collect you and your luggage in a 4×4.
The Hermitage comprises several free-standing cabins scattered across whimsical gardens, romantically lit at night. They include an amphitheatre for outdoor yoga in the summer and a firepit for glamped-up bonfire nights.
The main house is a diaphanous, open-plan space for dining and hanging out, with a well-stocked library and a music room filled with drums and a baby grand. A contemporary take on classical Moroccan décor with banquettes updated in earthy tones, cactus silk and velvet which complement the classic flat weave rugs from the surrounding region.
Manager Sami and his crew are delightful and ever eager to please, and there is lots to do on an outdoorsy weekend. Join Mustapha, a jovial mountain guide who was born in the area, on a three-hour loop from the hotel following wheat terraces and ancient paths to Gods Bridge, or on the casualr, 30-minute stroll along the river to the Petite Cascade Café for a Berber lunch of hot bread grilled over firewood, and a fragrant, spiced chicken and vegetable tagine.
In the evening soothe stiff joints and aching limbs with a classic in-room massage, or a Beldi hammam. A very happy hour can be spent here in the steam before a scrub down with olive oil based soap followed by a herb-infused, river mud wrap.
A contemporary interpretation of the log cabin with sleek bathrooms, soothing colour schemes, comfortable lounge areas and, in some cases, open fireplaces, but the devil’s in the detail. Better geared to summer than winter, reversible air conditioning in some of the rooms feels like a poor substitute for a wood burning stove. I’d have killed for a kettle to make a cup of tea and a fridge for some contraband wine, but there’s no doubt this place would be pure magic come spring, especially in Room Four, which has a great terrace overlooking the river.
In a land famed for feeding you until you beg for mercy, the 100 dirham (£10) dinner of kefta, chicken or vegetable tagines were very simple, hot and hearty, but somewhat parsimonious. No sign of the famous Moroccan soups or salads that you classicly get to start, not a sniff of dessert, and no alcohol served either.
Not suitable.
Fabulous if you and your kids love scampering through the hills and splashing through rivers. The cabins are geared for families with banquettes in the living rooms that convert into child-sized beds.
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