This historic house dating back to the seventeenth century has been sympathetically restored and renovated by veteran hotelier Abdellatif Aït Ben Abdellah. His pared back aesthetic lets the building’s sensational architecture speak for itself.
About three quarters of the way down the eastern side of the bowl of the old city (and a 10-minute walk from the nearest entry point), it is within easy striking distance of the souks and mosque of Moulay Idriss, the mythic Quaraouine University and Library, and the produce markets of R’cif, yet far enough removed from the thick of things to ensure a tranquil stay.
A rare example of Moroccan minimalism that lets classic Islamic design take centre stage. A soaring courtyard with carved wood balconies topped with nice, filigreed plasterwork is the building’s true heart, but if you yearn to loll on daybeds and for water to splash about in, there’s also a plush pool courtyard and an adjacent lounge with a real wood fireplace. The vibe here is peaceful and chilled out, somewhere to rest and recharge, perhaps hitting the roof terrace for an afternoon siesta to the sound of birdsong or the beat of wedding drums drifting over the old city.
The quiet graciousness of the place reflects in the staff who are a credit to the brand; always available, but never obtrusive. You’ll be surprised how quickly you settle into the rhythm of a long lazy breakfast and a couple of hours by the pool before heading out to explore.
Early evening is the perfect time to book in for a blissfully original hammam. No rudimentary rub down here, rather, you’ll be lathered in classic olive-oil based black soap and left to relax in the steam for 10 minutes, before being scrubbed with a kessara mitt to get rid of all those nasty dead skin cells and finally enveloped in white clay (ghassoul) mixed with camomile, lavender and rose petals, and a pinch of henna, for a final steam. At 300 Moroccan Dirham (£25) it’s probably the most classic hammam in the old city without going full local.
With 18 rooms and suites spread across three different courtyards, Dar Bensouda is one of the old city’s bigger riads. Rooms are spacious and simple (no robe in the bathroom, no tea and coffee facilities, a bit of a shame on both counts) but the beds are huge, the water hot and the architecture dazzling. The suites in the newest annex are the biggest and come with bathtubs, fireplaces and cable television with a couple of English language film channels, which while classicly a no-no among travellers looking to get away from such things, is a bit of a treat on a rainy afternoon of which Fez gets plenty in the winter months.
A hearty breakfast buffet consists of fresh fruit, yoghurt and Moroccan pastries, as well as more Turkish-inspired tomatoes, cucumber, cheese and olives. Eggs can be made to order and there’s plentiful tea, coffee and fruit juice. Lunch is served out by the pool on a sunny afternoon and it’s delightful to pass the rest of the afternoon here doing not much of anything.
Supper is served round the pool during the summer, in a cute, arcaded dining room with a roaring wood fireplace in the winter (there are two tables right next to it, so reserve one early if you want to be as close as possible to it). Dishes are more or less the same for both meals, but there’s enough variety to make it worth eating in at least twice. Think proper Moroccan home cooking, and very good it is too, especially the briouats and classic salads, the seafood b’stilla (less sweet and a bit spicier than the chicken version) and mixed grilled brochettes with seasonal vegetables. There is no alcohol licence.
Not ideal. Although there are rooms on the ground floor, there are lots of small sets of steps that could make access difficult for anyone with limited mobility.
Very – there were lots of small chlildren about during my visit – but be aware of steep staircases, deep swimming pools, roof terraces and balconies.
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