During the Spanish protectorate El Reducto was the home of a noble family from Seville. It subsequently ended up in the hands of Sidi Ahmed Abdelkrim Haddad, the grand vizier of Tetouan, who lavished the courtyard balconies and Andaluz tiles with typically Islamic pierced plaster and carved cedar ceilings.
Tucked away down a narrow lane near the Cinema Espanol, where locals gather beneath a large mulberry tree on balmy summer nights. It’s a fantastic base for soaking up the laid-back charms of Tetouan. Most of the sights are within easy walking distance, but if you want to hit the sea be warned: the best beaches are a good 30-minutes drive away.
More Andaluz than Moroccan in atmosphere, thanks to typically Spanish black-and-white cement tiles in the courtyard and a very Spanish, rambunctious vibe. This has long been a place for folks to eat, drink and chew the fat long into the night, but overnighters will be reassured to know the rooms don’t seem to absorb the noise. And the roof terrace, which has great views over the old town, provides a peaceful retreat from it all.
Barreto bubbles with the kind of big-hearted, exuberant personality that makes you glad you came and sad to leave. It’s not perfect if you need 24-hour room service, mod cons and great plumbing, but everything is done with such roaring good cheer it’s easily forgiven. Check out the onsite boutique also for a great range of hand-selected leather bags, kaftans and perfume from the souks.
Ten rooms, all individually decorated, combine a somewhat incongruous mix of chintzy satin bedspreads and gauzy drapes, with tartan cushion covers, hand-cut zellige (Moroccan mosaics) and elegantly carved plaster arches. Somehow it works, and the master suite at the top of the house has two bathtubs, adding an extra layer of luxe to a romantically eccentric weekend.
Beloved by locals and visitors alike, El Reducto’s dining room is the meeting place of half the town. Like the rest of the place, a maximalist approach combines lace tablecloths, zebra-print banquettes, crystal chandeliers and contemporary art works against more classic Islamic décor with cosseting results. Food follows with abundance, a raft of Spanish, Canary Island and Moroccan dishes ranging from classic tortillas and tagines, to swordfish braised in Mojo Verde, and free-flowing wine.
Like most classic houses in Morocco, you need to get up the stairs to get to bed. However, the restaurant is easily accessed for lunch or dinner.
Absolutely and one of the rooms has a mezzanine level that is perfect for children.
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