Marrakech’s most Instagrammable riad-hotel is Vanessa Branson’s theatrically styled El Fenn. Now with 42 rooms, it spreads across a labyrinth of 13 interconnected riads. Marrakech’s version of Soho House, it is a lifestyle hotel replete with sun-dappled courtyards, marble pools, bars, a spa, boutique and – the crowning glory – a rooftop terrace with views of the Koutoubia minaret.
Located on the smart western edge of the Medina next to Bab El Ksour, El Fenn is perfectly situated between the Medina and Gueliz, the ‘New Town’. From here it’s a 10-minute walk to the Djemaa el Fna and the central souqs. And, taxis are available outside the front door to whisk you out of town on adventures.
El Fenn pioneered Marrakech’s maximalist bohemian style that now influences our penchant for velvet sofas, brass lanterns, zellij tiles and jewel-toned rooms. If anything, the latest refurbishment by architect Sylvain Raguenau has amplified that with layers of pattern, texture and materiality including rich red, brecciated Agadir marble, hand-stitched camel leather tiles and a kaleidoscope of pink, pomegranate, green, saffron and chocolate tadelakt plaster. To this exuberant base, Vanessa has added contemporary Moroccan artworks, mid-century contemporary furnishings, a glass installation by Hassan Hajjaj and textiles by interior doyenne and partner Madeleine Weinreb. The richly layered effect is stimulating and theatrical and it’s easy to understand why it remains perennially popular with a creative crowd.
With 42 rooms El Fenn is now more of a hotel than a riad and an army of staff cater to a demanding international clientele. Facilities are impressive, with five courtyards each dedicated to different activities. In one, the new Colonnade Café caters to residents only with a large pool set beside a bar. In another you’ll find a full-service spa. Orange trees full of chirping birds adorn a third with a television salon and games room, while yet another provides additional living space to the Annexe when it is rented as a separate house. But, it is the stunning roof terrace with its two pools, candy-striped sun loungers and fashionable bar-restaurant that is the social hub of the hotel. It is also a magnet for outside guests who flock here for DJ brunches and to snap a sunset picture with the iconic Koutoubia in the background. However, given its wild popularity and complex architecture, service can be slow.
The 42 rooms are incredibly varied in size and style. They range from large doubles to huge two- or three-bedroom suites (more like apartments with plunge pools) and the Annexe, which can be rented as a whole house. All are individually decorated in maximalist contemporary Moroccan style with jewel-coloured tadelakt walls, vintage Modernist furniture, plush handwoven rugs and contemporary Moroccan artworks. Many have huge six-foot-broad beds and roaring fireplaces, and some come with gleaming copper bathtubs in the bedroom.
Bathrooms are similarly lavish with high ceilings, showers covered in shimmering zellij tiles and atmospheric subtleing from cut-brass lanterns. The 10 new rooms in the Colonel’s House – now among the best – are inspired by Moroccan royal palaces and have rich craft detailing. However, the ‘open’ bathrooms in some rooms may be an issue for guests who prefer privacy, and some ground-floor rooms lack privacy.
Life at El Fenn is a social whirl and food is a big part of the experience, revolving around a daily roster of breakfast, high tea (free), poolside snacking, cocktails and evening feasts. As a guest, you have two options for dining: the downstairs Colonnade Café with its Hassan Hajjaj art installation, and the spectacular roof terrace restaurant and bar.
Breakfast on the latter with the city spread around you is a desubtleful experience and involves a cavalcade of croissant, fruit, yoghurt and granola which can be spiced up with à la carte offerings such as shakshouka (baked eggs in a spicy tomato and pepper sauce). The lunch menu (also served poolside) is subtle and involves Moroccan salads, burgers or ‘Moroccan-style’ fish and chips. Dinner offers classic Mediterranean and French dishes alongside Moroccan standards such as chicken tagine with preserved lemon.
The terrace restaurant is extremely popular in the evening and service can be strained when busy. The lively cocktail bar, however, is always fun and a great place to discover up-coming musicians and DJs.
Yes, taxis can drop you at the front door and several bedrooms on the ground floor are wheelchair-accessible. In addition, there’s a lift that takes you up to the roof terrace. That said, like all riads there are small steps to negotiate between courtyards and accessible space on the roof terrace is limited. Make your needs known at the time of booking.
The style and atmosphere of the main house is more suited to fashionable couples although one extra bed (€100/£86 for children aged four-12 or €150/£128 for children aged 12-16 years old, per night) can be added to family suites and extra large rooms. Complimentary cots are available for infants up to four years old and babysitting is available on on request.
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