Auberge Tangaro is the kind of place you fantasise is out there somewhere, and once discovered, guard it jealously for yourself. Hidden away from the rest of the world it’s delightfully laid-back with just enough whistles and bells to ensure you feel properly pampered – a haven from the rigours of modern-day life.
Perched on a hill top above the tiny village of Diabat, which was made famous by false rumours that Jimi Hendrix wrote Castles in the Sand here (he didn’t but there’s a sweet little tea house that commemorates him just the same), about 20 minutes south of Essaouria by car. The Sofitel Golf and Spa – which has an excellent club house restaurant for lunch – is just next door.
A rustically chic, barefoot-in-the-sand kind of a place that comprises one main house, where you’ll find the grand dining room and a sunny reading room casually sprinkled with cushions, books and board games, plus several large, white-washed cottages that have been converted into rooms spread across pretty cactus gardens shaded by giant eucalyptus trees. At the bottom of the land, a turquoise swimming pool glimmers seductively alongside a conservatory-style bar.
One of the best things about staying here is how very chilled out it is, which reflects in the service (and Wi-Fi) at times. The trick is to make yourself slow right down, planning the day around naps by the pool, perhaps a scrub down in the hammam or a relaxing massage in the spa, yoga in their specially designed studio in the afternoon, and a cold Casablanca beer as the sun sets over the Atlantic. You won’t regret it.
Nineteen rooms cover a range of needs from spacious superior doubles to duplex suites suitable for families. What they all have in common are private terraces where you can sip your morning coffee or a cheeky glass of wine mid-afternoon, and log fireplaces, which come into their own on chilly nights when the notoriously fierce Essaouira wind starts to blow. It’s comfortably pared-back rather than designer luxury, with plain Moroccan wool blankets on snowy cotton sheets and patterned rugs adding a splash of colour.
A traditional Moroccan breakfast is served most days outside on the terrace in front of the main house, comprising farm-fresh eggs, fruit and yogurt from the souks, home-baked breads and pastries. Lunch is a casual affair in the conservatory by the pool, a bright-sunny space where you can munch on simple salads, club sandwiches and burgers and fries. But, it’s the dramatic, candlelit dining hall where Moroccan diffa (feasts) of delicately spiced cooked salads, succulent tagines sprinkled with dried fruits, and almond-laced desserts steal the show.
Superior doubles from €85 ($94); duplex suite sleeping four from €160 ($179), year-round. Breakfast included. Free Wi-Fi.
There’s a carpark on the grounds and everything is at ground-floor level with paved paths across the gardens to connect the rooms.
Yes, some of the rooms are designed with this in mind, but remember many who come here are after a romantic getaway or a peaceful retreat.
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