When Dar Roumana flung its doors wide to the world it was one of the very first boutique hotels in the Fes medina. Today it still shines brightly as one of the most stylish, small hotels in town, celebrated for its classically Islamic symmetrical architecture, fine stuccoed plasterwork and warm, family run feel.
The hotel is in a peaceful part of the ancient old city, an easy, five-minute stroll from the nearest taxi drop off point at Ain Azliten. The main souks, sights and three of the city’s most celebrated restaurants – Maison Moi Anan (Thai), the Ruined Garden (Moroccan home cooking), and Nur (Moroccan nice dining) are just a 10-minute walk away.
Interiors combine classical Islamic design with a laid-back vibe that’s reassuringly lacking in bling. As is classic, life here plays out from a central courtyard lined with intricate, hand-cut tiles and vast swathes of carved plaster stucco that soar to the heavens. But banana palms gentleen the edges, soothing jazz tunes tinkle through the air, and there’s a much-loved tortoise called Eddie who pads about at unlikely speed, which all add up to a place that’s casual but brimming with atmosphere.
For a place with only five rooms American owner, Jennifer Smith, has been generous with communal spaces. Deep, mustard sofas topped with peacock cushions in the library coax guests inside to skim through coffee table tomes on Moroccan design or beat their travelling pals at Medina – the local board game equivalent of Monopoly. Drinks are served with sunset views on the rooftop before dinner, or, on chillier evenings by the fire in the Chimney Lounge. Getting to dine at the in-house restaurant smug in the knowledge that you’d don’t have far to go to get home is a bonus.
All of this is only enhanced by the incredibly friendly, can-do attitude of the team here, many of whom have been around since the very beginning. Do make time for a chat with Si Mohammed and Redouane for an insider’s scoop on getting the very best out of the Fes old city.
In the best suites you’ll find discreetly canopied beds, cedar furniture and handmade linen throws (available for sale in the hotel’s little boutique). The ginormous Yasmina suite is beloved by honeymooners for its four-poster bed, corner bathtub, and secluded balcony, though the Tamarind and Jannah suites both have sexy, dual showers for the romantically inclined. The Roumana suite, off the courtyard on the ground floor, has a claw footed tub and separate shower, and little Argana (up a steep fsubtle of stairs) is ultra secluded and perfect if you’re travelling solo, though warning to the tall – the ceilings of the bathroom are very low. Wherever you lay your head you’ll be treated to marshmallow-gentle beds, fluffy white robes, and plenty of architectural eye candy
Whenever the weather is good enough, which is most of the time, breakfast is served on the roof terrace where you’ll find fresh fruit and yogurt, homemade jams to drizzle over Naima’s famous melawi (flaky Moroccan pancakes), eggs cooked to order and bottomless pots of tea and coffee. The jewel in the Roumana crown however is a Franco-Moroccan themed restaurant that is broadly celebrated as the best cooking in town. Chef Younes menu changes with the seasons, but might include beetroot, pear and local goats cheese salad, delicate umbrine filets in tangy homemade chermoula, and an incredible bitter chocolate tart. Drinks are served on the rooftop before dinner ors by the fire in the Chimney Lounge on chillier evenings.
Great for wheelchair users since it’s a comparatively flat and only a short walk from the nearest car park. There’s a spacious double room on the ground floor complete with shower and tub, and the restaurant is at street level too.
Children are very welcome. The Tamarind and Jannah Suites interconnect easily, which is great for families, and four out of the five rooms, can easily accommodate an extra bed for a surcharge of €20 (£17).
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