This sleepy sister hotel to La Sultana Marrakech occupies a prime perch on Morocco’s wild western coast, flanked by protected birdlife and sandy surf beaches. Its five-star facilities include two pools, beautiful gardens, an extensive spa and a fine, fish-specialist restaurant.
La Sultana Oualidia’s position just above a sea lagoon means great views. When the tide recedes, sandbanks and oyster beds emerge; colourful fishing boats chug by all day, and the subtle is buoyant and beautiful. A handy hill opposite dilutes Atlantic gusts into refreshing zephyrs. Flamingos and migratory stilts congregate up the estuary, while a sandy beach leads towards the sea and surfer-friendly waves. Alas, reaching such an idyll does necessitate a lengthy journey – about two and half hours’ drive from Casablanca or Marrakech.
The beautiful main building is a toffee-coloured kasbah-like construction, cascading upwards via turrets and terraces. In the centre is a glass-roofed spa, snazzily bedecked with Rietveld chairs. Bedrooms are more classic, featuring stained-glass windows, oleander weaves and cool tadelakt-plaster walls, but equally relaxing. As is the hotel as a whole: there’s greenery everywhere, birdsong everywhere, space everywhere. Your conscience can rest easy, too: water is reused and neighbouring farmers supported.
The spa includes a hair salon, hammam, five treatment cabins and a heated pool. A bigger, fresh-water infinity pool awaits outside, facing the salty lagoon, plus a greenhouse and small gym. Below is the deserted sandy beach – and further on a fish pond and rose-swathed, daybed-dappled garden. A pool table beckons back inside. As if all that’s not enough, the discreet, English-speaking staff can arrange yoga, kayaking, surfing or birdwatching. Not bad for a 12-room hotel.
Even the most affordable Prestige Deluxe rooms come with a small salon area, wood-burning fireplace, big bed, bigger marble bathrooms and a large terrace with hot tub. The only gripe is the lack of decent coffee machines. Throwing in bathtubs and much more space, suites are worth stumping up for. King of the casbah is a top-floor apartment, its two terraces adorned with mock cannons, while a newer treehouse is petite but deeply romantic.
Breakfast is taken in a small pavilion, with the homemade vanilla yoghurt recommended. Just outside is a lunch bar, and below that a jetty on which local oysters are served. Drinks are available back on the terrace, and best relished as the orange sun suddenly plunges to sea. That’s the cue to move inside to an aquarium-walled dining room whose inventive fresh-fish dishes thrill – try the crab meat and pureed avocado.
While guests conniced to wheelchairs are welcome and suites are big enough, there are no lifts (although staff are willing to carry you) and no wet rooms.
Various rooms interconnect or are big enough to accommodate extra beds (MAD 715/£56 per night), with complimentary cots and babysitting also available. The grounds are large enough that privacy’s easy to find, and staff can arrange a children’s surf club.
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